Dec 19
Aug 27
Here is what you do when you have no place to live. You gather up as much stuff as you can possibly carry on your back and pull behind you on wheels, and carry the rest in your one remaining free hand. Then you arrive at your train station like that, (climbing countless stairs as the escalators don’t work mostly) and now you are traveling via metro or bus until you find the first overnight inn, drop your things, go out and follow up on the leads you’ve been given, come back, receive calls where agency says, “Oh sorry, we can’t show you the apartment at 3pm as the owner still isn’t back from vacation yet”, pack up all your stuff and move to the next place you will research, going by train with all the above luggage. Sometimes, you must just splurge and take a taxi when the marathon walking becomes too much. In between this, you are figuring out different train schedules, making reservations for a 2nd or 3rd night stay somewhere, reading French rental catalogs, trying to find these places on your very worn map, figuring out how the metro works because it’s not like Paris & realizing you just lost 3 euros as the metro ticket you thought would get you through the turnstile has a “secret way of passage” which you did not know, so your time has expired. Then you also must constantly ask directions to the next agency/B&B/apartment or, by this time, a toilet, because you’ve finished your liter of water, walking in the hot sun. When you discover , (EUREKA!) that your inn will take your luggage for a week, you will go back to Paris to pack up the apartment, clean the apartment thoroughly, and move the entire rest of your stuff in the heavy suitcases and boxes, this time in a CAR. Then you drive to your new home in the South of France , hoping that you actually have a place to PUT all your belongings now, including the ones the INN has been holding for you or you will be sleeping in your car. (Where? I don’t know, because it will be full of luggage).
We’re not at the “driving to the South of France” yet in a car. We are at the 2nd stage, where we have dropped all the suitcases we had and now have only a backpack on us to the next village to see if the apartment we strongly desire, actually will come to fruition.
Oh, did I mention that it’s Marseille that is our base and where David will be teaching? It’s very hot now and it’s like “Miami without the air conditioning” I call it. While doing all of the above trekking about, you must come back to your “inn” or hotel, or B&B and shower a couple of times a day. Sticky hot. We are also traveling out from Marseille by train to a port town known as CASSIS. Incredibly beautiful. It would be a dream if we could actually live here.
Oh,and to Vicki and Sharon, here are fun
art places for you:
La Maison de chant – dedicated to any vocal arts fans – Odile founded and managed it
(We stayed at Odile and Michel’s B&B one night in Marseille. A WEALTH of Marseille special places.
La Meson – Home (in spanish) a small concert room for jazz and flamenco 500 m from apt. Tram 2 – stop Nat’l or Reformes
La Maison de chant – dedicated to any vocal arts fans – Odile founded and managed it
La Meson – Home (in spanish) a small concert room for jazz and flamenco 500 m from apt. Tram 2 – stop Nat’l or Reformes
Dock des Suds – Main place of big Marseilles musical evenings – In Oct the Fiesta des Suds
Tram 2 – Terminus Euromediterranee Arenc
La Friche Belle de Mai – The waste manufactory in La Belle de Mai district – in the old tobaccos manufactory an alternative cultural project wich became an int’l and official pattern
bus 49 – arret rue Jobin
Haven’t even hit the local artists…………..just wait till you see local artist fare…..ooohh la la
This – is Cassis:
Aug 25
It’s a cool crisp morning at Gare de Lyon on the 22nd of August and the sun is streaming in across the station and trains that have just arrived from Milan and Zürich. We’re waiting for our train to come in from Marseille. It won’t leave until 11:04 – it’s only 10:30 now. Fun wait. Never can get tired of watching a million people pass you by,
It’s so colorful, the people, their clothes, their suitcases, their hair, – their DOGS. Love it.
Some people walk with a sense of purpose, others with a tired and “I’d like to be on my train now” amble, others talking on their phones, lots of little tiny children, lots of mommies, lots of skinny people, lots of suitcases, and the pigeons. I can’t wait to get on board the train so I can start knitting. David went to find an ATM. I went to the pharmacy and drooled. J’adore un pharmacie, I bought some wipes and checked out some of the lotions and facecreams and all of the brands. They’re lovely and they’re expensive, and they’re worth it. I have two contacts in my eyes, for a change, so I can see really well. But I can’t read a damn thing.
We had a really nice dinner last night in the apartment in Montmorency. I had stir fried chicken with tiny little diced sautéed vegetables of celery, shallots, carrots, garlic that I had cut up some weeks before and they were all frozen so it was really easy to just plop them in the pan – and then served some rice with it from Picard, it was quite tasty and it was served with fresh bread and some butter and mustard. I like to dip my bread in the mustard they have here. It’s very spicy and good – sometimes it’s Maille and other times it’s whatever I can find at Auchun.
There’s an older couple passing by me – all dressed in red, red sweater for him , and red and white fisherman’s shirt which is neat, and they look SO cute!! Oh! here comes David, back from the ATM.
No ATM.
My poor knees are really creaking and cracking today – bone on bone – Oh I hope I don’t have to have a knee replacement soon. Ofcourse if I have it here, I might get a spa treatment out of it, and all kinds of therapy that’s included as you know, so there’s an advantage to having it here, rather than the states, because it would be cheaper – whole lot cheaper and I would be given all these spa treatments that they order – can you believe it? Well, once my walking starts in earnest again here in France, they will improve greatly. All that driving in the States didn’t do me one bit of good. I just feel SO OUT OF SHAPE NOW!!!!!
So, we’re on the TGV, it’s fast, that’s for sure and I’m getting some knitting done (when I ‘m not on THIS).
Before we know it………….
Welcome to PROVENCE, my friends!!! (3 hours from Paris – not bad that fast train!)
MARSEILLE!!! 3:55PM
Well, we had a scare. David’s backpack was missing – he thought he left it down at the check -in desk, but NO, then we thought is it in the Taxi? As we were talking to the Taxi driver about taking us to Cassis tomorrow……..we called the Taxi driver – no answer – we called again and again, no answer. Finally, he answered and he said he would look – and he opened the trunk, and there in the back was David’s backpack!! All fine and good. He’s far away now, so he’s going to bring it back to us in 2 hours.
God is good, God is good.
Well, should have just STAYED In the room.
Tried to get on hotel WIFI and it sucked. Walked to McDonalds instead and in asking directions of the nice French lady, was immediately accosted by her big white dog –
who would NOT get out of my skirt!!
Then, none of the credit cards would work at McDonalds (they’re not hooked up to
American CC’s)** and finally paid cash. The water spilled onto the tray because they didn’t have tops on them and the water was too full. He replaced the tray and I took the new tray and immediately hit some plexi-glass holding biscuits when all the fries went flying in the air and tumbled to the floor.
Then we sat outside for ambience (yes, even at McDonalds) and realized that this particular McDonalds was next to a helicopter pad, so this must be a new way of getting service fast. It was loud.
I’m thinking…..”What the HECK??”
I need to go back to my room.
**credit cards didn’t work cause we were back in the states. When we arrived back in France – they saw a charge go through for train tkts. It looked suspicious so they cut off our cards . It’s okay, we only went a day without food. HA
Aug 22
THINGS I REALIZE – SINCE RETURNING:
1. I could have made a small FORTUNE if I had brought SCHOOL SUPPLIES back from Walmart
(They have increased by 25% in France and they were tres cher to begin with!!!!)
2. My peanut butter is nowhere to be found
3. The cushy toilet paper is found
4. I’ve come back to a furnished apartment where I have just ONE of everything, not 3 or 5 and it’s a fact I have a whole lot less (than I ever have in my life) and like it a lot
5. It helps not to have a basement
6. The only thing REMOTELY like living in France in the United States – is NORDSTROMS, where clerks are NICE, look you in the EYE, offer assistance, smile and one is surrounded by superb quality
7. My husband really must have missed speaking FRENCH as he just now, spoke, entirely in French, to a woman who totally spoke English at our residency apartment in Marseille. He really missed speaking French obviously!!! 🙂
8. I miss my grandchildren and children
OH! I found the peanut butter!!!(Thank you TOM & JOY) you made my day! 🙂
me and Iris in my kitchen
Aug 19
At some 35,000 feet up from the earth a lot of planes were flying. But not ours.
Arriving the usual 2 hours early to avoid TSA hassles and mobs of people, I was in for one of those
airline moments that was far from a “moment” and thought this is what happens when you pray to God to make you a more PATIENT BEING.
Yep.
Our little (big) plane decided to flash a warning light as 257 souls sat on the tarmac – # 2 to take off, when that light goes off in the cockpit – so we return to the gate.
60 minutes + goes by.
We’re “good to go” the Captain announces and the 257 clap loudly.
Now we’re number 5 to take off and guess what? ANOTHER light comes on.
Back to the gate. More mechanics. More waiting. Another 60 minutes.
And voilà! It’s fixed. But the wonderful male flight attendant made an announcement to the effect, that everyone must return to their seats and fasten their seat belts in case we really did take off this time.
I had to laugh.
We arrive in Philadelphia and jump out of our seats, because, no doubt everyone’s bum is numb.
And guess what? The JETWAY is broken!!! So add to that – another 30 minutes of standing in the aisles while they FIX it!
Gosh I hope this airline gets it’s act together before they merge.
Aug 8
OKAY, I’m in Saint Louis for an extended French Vacation. Yes, we get more than 2 weeks, even as a PART-TIME employee in Paris. It’s beautiful.
Since here, we’ve done not much but take care of the little “Cape Cod house” we own and I have to say – it’s a bit much. All that yard (who NEEDS this much yard/garden?)….all that upkeep inside and outside ……….whew……..I really miss my simple apartment living with no upkeep, no lawn to mow, no huge amount of maintenance. AND – as much as I miss my incredible grands – (I have the most incredible grands and KIDS) –
and enjoy every single moment of every single day that I am blessed with their fun and presence……………
I
Miss
France !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Jun 19
There’s a story here……..but right now – you’ll have to be satisfied with just the photos………. Enjoy!
The Story of Petit Trianon and Marie Antoinette
Jun 9
English: Reflection at Honfleur harbour, Normandy, France, February 2011 Français : Reflet au port de Honfleur, Normandie, France, Février 2011 (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
This time we’re in the northwest of France, enjoying Normandy — friendly locals, crêpes, Camembert, and a port town known as HONFLEUR. It is a popular get-away for Parisians.
Little did we know that by not booking ahead, and it being the special “Blessing of the Ships – Pentecost weekend” – that we would not find a room – anywhere.
And then, when we thought – must we go all the way back to Paris, or sleep on a park bench – when this tall gentleman comes out of NO-WHERE and asks us if we need a place to stay ……….
hmmmmmmmmmm
We’re listening to him, and looking at him, and then I’m glancing at David and thinking that this is just TOO weird, who IS this person coming to us out of no-where?
My American skepticism kicks in and I think ‘“SERIAL KILLER”………..do not follow this person.
Well, we exchange niceties, and his card is given to us, a very nice little itsby bitsy card- the smallest little card – almost a brochure actually, but TINY , that you’ve ever seen. We put it away and go to our first hotel, the one that is always there for us with an airline discount, – MERCURE, but ofcourse, they’re full, just like we’ve already been told.
We call 6 other numbers that we had listed in our fones. It’s a very short conversation and it’s all C’est complete” – full. Okay, so we go back to Mercure and ask them about their other hotel in Le Havre across the river. Oh, okay, they do have one room, but it’s 170 euros!!! Oh dear God. Then we ask about getting there, and it’s by taxi. How much is that? 70 euros!!! You have GOT to be kidding me. The park bench looks more inviting. We’d only need it for maybe a couple of hours as we could stay in a restaurant eating and drinking till -what? at least 3am? I don’t know. But it’s looking grim.
We look at each other and pull out the itsy bitsy colored “brochure” of this GITE (by our stranger,) and call the number. Yes , he still has the room, and so we tell him we’re be arriving by taxi. It’s only 6 km away. The taxi that we had called earlier is nowhere to be found…….this always happens to us. So, we called the stranger back. He says he will come and get us.
Oh dear.
Well, okay.
And then he arrived in a little van/truck with only 2 seats in it so David gets in the back with no seat and I get in front with this nice stranger …….
David practically rolls into the back door, when he takes off. Pretty funny, but then we drive and it gets darker and I’m thinking, oh no, he IS a serial killer and we’ll never be found alive – ever – and what have we done?? And then as soon as I thought that, we arrive at the most lovely of country Gites with beautiful lights on and it turns out that this wonderful stranger has actually built this wonderful warm homey GITE with his own two hands! He is a genius! He did the building, the woodwork, the roof, the electricity, even the decorating. It was so very lovely! And now, the stranger had a name, “Christian” and he was now our “angel of mercy” . ( He is also related to Celine Dion and to the brother of Champlain, the discoverer who founded QUEBEC!!! We got the whole history lesson.)
I do have a lot of faith in these matters, by traveling “by the seat of our pants” so to speak because that is our M.O. with our work, but honestly, it’s a test, and honestly, this guy comes out of no- where and we are blessed blessed blessed with the most lovely evening in this gorgeous Gite in the Country outside Honfleur, quiet, peaceful, with a long country walk in the morning after our very fresh country breakfast.
How lucky can we get, I ask myself~~
The following is compiled from Wikipedia and from Rick Steve’s Travel to Honfleur………..
Honfleur escaped the bombs of World War II and feels as picturesque as it looks. Gazing at its snug harbor, it’s easy to overlook the historic importance of this port.
This is where the Seine River meets the English Channel. For over a thousand years, sailors have enjoyed Honfleur’s ideal location. While busy conquering England, William received supplies shipped from here. (Also a relative, btw).
And Canadians know Honfleur for Samuel de Champlain who sailed from here in 1608, discovering the St. Lawrence Seaway and founding Quebec City.
The harbor, once fortified with a wall and two gates, is now an easy-going marina. Today’s Honfleur, long eclipsed by the gargantuan port of Le Havre [luh ah-vrah] just across the Seine, happily uses its past as a bar stool and sits on it.
Honfleur’s Church of St. Catherine is worth a visit. It seems if you flipped it, it would float. That’s because it was built by a community with plenty of boat builders and no cathedral architects. When the first nave was built in the mid-1400s, it was immediately apparent they needed more space — so they built another.
Many consider Honfleur the birthplace of Impressionism. Just as Monet once did, artists still come here catch the light playing on the harbor front and reflecting in the water. It was in places like this that the battle cry of the Impressionists — “Out of the studio and into the light!” — was born.
Jun 5
Try to learn to breathe deeply, really to taste food when you eat, and when you sleep, really to sleep. Try as much as possible to be wholly alive with all your might, and when you laugh, laugh like hell. And when you get angry, get good and angry. Try to be alive. You will be dead soon enough. Ernest Hemingway, advice to young writers
Jun 2
Bathing Time at Deauville, by Eugène Boudin, 1865 (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
Step Two Whoa! Deauville is cool, breezy and lovely and we just left all that sun and heat. So what happened?
English: Train Station of Deauville and Trouville, Calvados, France (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
We’re only 2 hours north of Paris! Welcome to France, where temperatures change as quickly as they do in Saint Louis. No, scratch that, they ‘re getting ALL the heat now, no coolness what-so-ever. So, it’s Bus Vingt-D (20-D) to Honfleur and we hop on that right away as it takes us up on cliff roads over looking a lovely view of the ocean,
which we have not seen for sometime now. Streets are so narrow and how this bus gets through is a miracle but he actually drove on the sidewalk getting out of the town of Deauville !! We had to laugh!
The Bus ride to Honfleur is only 2 euros a piece, so such a bargain!!
Cannot wait to get there, but for now, we’re still bumping along, enjoying the scenery……………
Deutsch: Villa Strassburger (ehemalige villa Rotschild) in Deauville (Calvados, Frankreich) Français : Villa Strassburger (ancienne villa Rotschild) à Deauville (Calvados, France) (Photo credit: Wikipedia)
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